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British Mountaineering Council Times New Roman Committee 2000 Ropes Don't Break
Brown, M., 2000. Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems,. Delmar.
Brew, Brendon. 1977. Test Methods for Caving Equipment. Proceedings of the 7th International Speleological Congress. Sheffield, England.
Cleary, Sean (date unknown) Ad Hoc Fall Test of Climbing Rope DEAD LINK
David, Joseph and Pack, Clark. 1992. Report on the Dynamics of a Rock Climbing Lead Fall. North Carolina State University,
Dill, John. 1990. Are You Really on Belay? Response Magazine
Figucia, F. 1969. The Effect of Strain Rate and Ply Geometry on the Stress-Strain Properties of Nylon Yarns. Army Natick Laboratories, Natick, Mass. September 1969.
Frank, James A. 1989. Fabric Softener and Rescue Rope. Nylon Highway 128, July 1989.
Green, John. 2000. Harness Hang Pathology. Nylon Highway #45
Hirst, Eric. 1996. Bolting Sport Climbs
Kipp, Michael. 1979. On the Practical Strength of Kernmantle Ropes. Caving International 15, October 1979. pp. 37-40.
Laidlaw, 1999. Considerations for Rope Rescue. BASARC web page.
Lassia, R. 1989. Etude Dynamique du Mosqueton Lors de la Chute d'un Grimpeur (Dynamic Study of the Carabiner During the Fall of a Climber) International Mountaineering Symposium. Chamonix, Sept 1989
Leonard, Richard et al. 1956. Belaying the Leader - an Omnibus on Climbing Safety. The Sierra Club Bulletin
MacNamara, Chris. How to Rebolt
Mauthner, Kirk and Mauthner, Katie. 1999. Release Devices: A Comparative Analysis
Mauthner, Kirk and Mauthner, Katie. 1997. The What-If of Highline Failure...Is there a back-up?
Mauthner, Kirk and Mauthner, Katie. 1996. How Steep is too Steep?
Mauthner, Kirk and Mauthner, Katie. 1994. Gripping Ability on Rope in Motion
Marbach, G. and J.L. Rocourt. 1980. Techniques de La Speleologie Alpine. Choranche, France.
Maegdefrau, Helmut. 1989. Die Belastung des menschlichen Koerpers bein Sturz ins Seil und deren Folgen (Effects and Consequences to the Human Body upon Falling on a Rope). Doctoral Dissertation -Ludwig-Maximilians-University, Munich.
Menz, Paul G. 1993. The Physics of Bungee Jumping. The Physics Teacher. vol 31 Nov 1993
Microys, Helmut. 1977. Climbing Ropes. American Alpine Journal 21:l:5I pp. 137-147.
Nagay, Sandor. Blind Faith: Can We Really Trust Cold Shuts? Climbing Magazine
Park, D. Clark. 1993. Rope Tension Ratios over Top Piece Carabiner and Belay Device in a Rock Climbing Lead Fall. North Carolina State University
Park, D. Clark and David, Joseph. 1992. Rock Climbing Lead Fall Dynamics. North Carolina State University *this entry is currently in the bibliography under David, Joseph with a slightly different title. This one is the published paper, so delete the other reference*
Raleigh, Duane. 1992. Fall Forces - The Harder you Fall, Climbing Magazine, Oct./Nov. 1992
Raleigh, Duane. Mechanical Bolts - The Nuts and Bolts, Climbing Magazine
Raleigh, Duane. Adhesive Bolts - Sticky Business, Climbing Magazine
Raleigh, Duane. 1992. Bolts to Avoid, Climbing Magazine, October/November 1992
Randelzhofer, Peter. 1996. Zur Funktion und Wirkung von Sicherungsgeraeten beim Klettern (On the Function and Action of Climbing Belay Devices)
Rowe, P.et. al. (?), 1998. Anchor loads and the effects of an edge. Times New Roman Rescue Magazine.
Scott, Crook and Hawkins. 1996. Belaying Rescue Loads. Times New Roman Rescue Magazine
Scott, Crook and Hawkins. 1996. Rescue Belay Test Parameters Flawed? Times New Roman Rescue Magazine
Sheehan, Alan. 1996. Vector Analysis for Vertical Rescuers
Sheehan, Alan. 1998. Safe Main Line Loads on a Single Karabiner Load Sharing Connection
Sheehan, Alan. 1998. Safe Working Loads for Aerial Ropeways
Storrick, Dr. Gary D. (date unknown). Prusik Rappel "Safety"
Smikmator, Ferdinand. 1986. Research of Properties of Ropes. Proceedings of the 9th International Congress of Speleology. Barcelona, Spain.
Smith, Bruce. 1988. Effects of Rope Aging. NSS News 46:4, April 1988.
Stibranyi, Gustav. 1986. Tests and Practical Experiments with Czechoslovak Climbing Ropes, Used in Speleology. Proceedings of the 9th International Congress of Spe1eology. Barcelona. Spain. pp. 324-328.
Storage, W. and Ganter, J. Physics for Cavers: Ropes, Loads, and Energy. NSS News.
Storage, William. 1994. Aging Carabiners. NSS News, Sept 1994.
Storrick, Dr. Gary D. 1995. Prusik Rappel "Safety". Nylon Highway #42
Sulowski, A.C., Brinkley, J.W. 1990. Measurement of Maximum Arrest Force in Performance Tests of Fall Protection Equipment. Journal of Testing and Evaluation, American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM),, Philadelphia, PA. Vol. 18, No.2, March.
Taupin, Daniel, et al. 1992. Techniques of Protection Anchorages. Federation Francaise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade
Vines, Tom , 1983. The New York Incident. Response magazine, Summer
Vogel, Todd J. 1994. Bolts: bomber or time bombs? Rock and Ice, July/August, 1994.
Warild, Alan, 1994. Vertical. Sydney, Australia: The Speleological Research Council Ltd. pp. 64-66.
Wylie, John (date unknown). Friction, Fear, Friends and Falling
Nylon Highway - index to past issues
Brown, M., 2000. Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems,. Delmar.
Fasulo, David - Self-Rescue - 1997 Chockstone Press
Frank, J. et al., 1987 Rope Rescue Manual, California Mountain Company.
Long, John - Climbing Anchors - 1993 Chockstone Press
Long, John - More Climbing Anchors - 1998 Chockstone Press
May,W. G. 1973 Mountain Search and Rescue Techniques, Rocky Mountain Rescue Group Inc., Boulder, CO.
McInnes, Hamish, 1998. International Mountain Rescue Handbook, 3rd. ed. Constable & Co., London.
Peters, E. editor, 1982. Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills, The Mountaineers, Seattle, WA.
Padgett, A. et al., 1989. On Rope, National Speleological Society, Huntsville, AL.
Setnicka,Tim J. 1980. Wilderness Search and Rescue, Appalachian Mountain Club: Boston, MA.
Shepard, Nigel, 1990. A Manual of Modern Rope Technniques. Reprinted 1999, Constable & Co., London.
Vines, T. et al., 1989 High Angle Rescue Techniques, National Association for Search and Rescue.
Cutnel, J.D., Johnson, K.W. 1989. Physics. Wiley and Sons, NY NY.
Den Hartog, J.P. 1961 Mechanics, Dover Publishing, NY NY.
Mandel, John. 1964 The Statistical Analysis of Experimental Data. Dover Publishing, NY NY.
Shames, I.H. 1967. Engineering Mechanics, Statics and Dynamics, 2nd ed. Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, NJ.
ASTM C1028-96 Standard test method for determining the static coefficient of friction of ceramic tile and other like surfaces by the horizontal dynamometer pull-meter method. ASTM, West Conshohoken, PA
ASTM D1776-98e1 Standard Practice for Conditioning Testing Textiles
ASTM D4268-93 Standard Test Methods for Testing Fiber Ropes
ASTM D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
ASTM F1956-99 Standard Specification for Rescue Carabiners
ASTM F1768-97 Standard Guide for Using Whistle Signals During Rope Rescue Operations
ASTM F1740-96 Standard Guide for Inspection of Nylon, Polyester, or Nylon/Polyester Blend, or Both Kernmantle Rope
ASTM F1772-99 Standard Specification for Climbing Harnesses
ASTM F1773-97 Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment and Practices
ASTM F1774-99 Standard Specification for Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
ASTM F1775-97 Standard Specification for Labeling of Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment
CEN rope and mountaineering standards:
EN 892: Mountaineering Equipment - Dynamic Mountaineering Ropes - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 12275: Mountaineering Equipment - Connectors - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 12277: Mountaineering Equipment - Ice-Tools - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 12492: Mountaineering Equipment - Harnesses - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 12492: Mountaineering Equipment - Safety Helmets - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 564: Mountaineering Equipment - Accessory Cord - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 565: Mountaineering Equipment - Tape - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 566: Mountaineering Equipment - Slings - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 12276: Mountaineering Equipment - Frictional Anchors - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 12270: Mountaineering Equipment - Chocks - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 567: Mountaineering Equipment - Rope Clamps - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 958: Mountaineering Equipment - Energy Absorbing Systems for Use in Klettersteig (Via Ferrata) Climbing - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 959: Mountaineering Equipment - Rock Anchors - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 568: Mountaineering Equipment - Ice Anchors- Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 569: Mountaineering Equipment - Pitons - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 893: Mountaineering Equipment - Crampons - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 12278: Mountaineering Equipment - Pulleys - Safety Requirements and Test Methods
EN 20139: Textiles - Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing (ISO 139:1973)
EN 919: Fibre Ropes for General Service - Determination of Certain Physical and Mechanical Properties
CI-1201: Fiber Ropes, General Standard
CI-1403 Terminology for Fiber Rope
CI-1500 Standard Test Methods for Fiber Ropes
CI-1801 Low Stretch/Static Kernmantle Safety Rope
CIB-1.4 Technical Information Manual - General Rope Usage, Operational Guidelines, Rope Fibers, Rope Engineering, Application Engineering
NFPA 1983-2000.
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