ASSOCITATION for ROPE RESCUE ENGINEERING and TESTING

Bibliography of Rope Rescue

Papers, Articles, Texts,and Pertinent Standards and Methods

* means the paper is contained in the ARRET Library

version date 12/8/00

 

Papers and Articles

*Attaway, S.W., 1999. The Mechanics of Friction in Rope Rescue. Proceedings of the International Times New Roman Rescue Symposium.

*Attaway, S. W. 1996. Rope Systems Analysis. Proceedings of the International Times New Roman Rescue Symposium, 1996, Albuquerque, NM.

British Mountaineering Council Times New Roman Committee 2000 Ropes Don't Break

Brown, M., 2000. Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems,. Delmar.

Brew, Brendon. 1977. Test Methods for Caving Equipment. Proceedings of the 7th International Speleological Congress. Sheffield, England.

Cleary, Sean (date unknown) Ad Hoc Fall Test of Climbing Rope DEAD LINK

Custer, Dave. An Elastic Model of the Holding Power of Spring Loaded Camming Devices Used as Rock Climbing Anchors

David, Joseph and Pack, Clark. 1992. Report on the Dynamics of a Rock Climbing Lead Fall. North Carolina State University,

Dill, John. Staying Alive

Dill, John. 1990. Are You Really on Belay? Response Magazine

Figucia, F. 1969. The Effect of Strain Rate and Ply Geometry on the Stress-Strain Properties of Nylon Yarns. Army Natick Laboratories, Natick, Mass. September 1969.

Frank, James A. 1989. Fabric Softener and Rescue Rope. Nylon Highway 128, July 1989.

Green, John. 2000. Harness Hang Pathology. Nylon Highway #45

Hawkswell, Bill. 1984. An Investigation into Climbing Rope Failures...Cambridge Underground April, 1984 pp 28-32

Hirst, Eric. 1996. Bolting Sport Climbs

Kipp, Michael. 1979. On the Practical Strength of Kernmantle Ropes. Caving International 15, October 1979. pp. 37-40.

Laidlaw, 1999. Considerations for Rope Rescue. BASARC web page.

Lassia, R. 1989. Etude Dynamique du Mosqueton Lors de la Chute d'un Grimpeur (Dynamic Study of the Carabiner During the Fall of a Climber) International Mountaineering Symposium. Chamonix, Sept 1989

Leonard, Richard et al. 1956. Belaying the Leader - an Omnibus on Climbing Safety. The Sierra Club Bulletin

*Manning, T.W., 2000, Rescue System Mechanics, Interim Report. Proceedings of the International Times New Roman Rescue Symposium.

MacNamara, Chris. How to Rebolt

Mauthner, Kirk and Mauthner, Katie. 1999. Release Devices: A Comparative Analysis

Mauthner, Kirk and Mauthner, Katie. 1997. The What-If of Highline Failure...Is there a back-up?

Mauthner, Kirk and Mauthner, Katie. 1996. How Steep is too Steep?

Mauthner, Kirk and Mauthner, Katie. 1994. Gripping Ability on Rope in Motion

Marbach, G. and J.L. Rocourt. 1980. Techniques de La Speleologie Alpine. Choranche, France.

Maegdefrau, Helmut. 1989. Die Belastung des menschlichen Koerpers bein Sturz ins Seil und deren Folgen (Effects and Consequences to the Human Body upon Falling on a Rope). Doctoral Dissertation -Ludwig-Maximilians-University, Munich.

Menz, Paul G. 1993. The Physics of Bungee Jumping. The Physics Teacher. vol 31 Nov 1993

*Moyer, Tom. 1999. Qualifing a Rescue Rope. Originally in Proceedings of the International Times New Roman Rescue Symposium, 2000, Tucson AZ.

*Moyer, Tom 1999. Water knot testing. Originally in Proceedings of the International Times New Roman Rescue Symposium, 2000, Tucson AZ.

Microys, Helmut. 1977. Climbing Ropes. American Alpine Journal 21:l:5I pp. 137-147.

Nagay, Sandor. Blind Faith: Can We Really Trust Cold Shuts? Climbing Magazine

Park, D. Clark. 1993. Rope Tension Ratios over Top Piece Carabiner and Belay Device in a Rock Climbing Lead Fall. North Carolina State University

Park, D. Clark and David, Joseph. 1992. Rock Climbing Lead Fall Dynamics. North Carolina State University *this entry is currently in the bibliography under David, Joseph with a slightly different title. This one is the published paper, so delete the other reference*

Raleigh, Duane. 1992. Fall Forces - The Harder you Fall,  Climbing Magazine, Oct./Nov. 1992

Raleigh, Duane. Mechanical Bolts - The Nuts and Bolts, Climbing Magazine

Raleigh, Duane. Adhesive Bolts - Sticky Business, Climbing Magazine

Raleigh, Duane. 1992. Bolts to Avoid, Climbing Magazine, October/November 1992

Randelzhofer, Peter. 1996. Zur Funktion und Wirkung von Sicherungsgeraeten beim Klettern (On the Function and Action of Climbing Belay Devices)

Rowe, P.et. al. (?), 1998. Anchor loads and the effects of an edge. Times New Roman Rescue Magazine.

Society of U.S. N. Flight Surgeons. 1995. Human Impact Tolerance Limits. the Naval Flight Surgeon's Pocket Reference to Aircraft Mishap Investigation, 4th ed.

Scott, Crook and Hawkins. 1996. Belaying Rescue Loads. Times New Roman Rescue Magazine

Scott, Crook and Hawkins. 1996. Rescue Belay Test Parameters Flawed? Times New Roman Rescue Magazine

Sheehan, Alan. 1996. Vector Analysis for Vertical Rescuers

Sheehan, Alan. 1998. Safe Main Line Loads on a Single Karabiner Load Sharing Connection

Sheehan, Alan. 1998. Safe Working Loads for Aerial Ropeways

Storrick, Dr. Gary D. (date unknown). Prusik Rappel "Safety"

Smikmator, Ferdinand. 1986. Research of Properties of Ropes. Proceedings of the 9th International Congress of Speleology. Barcelona, Spain.

Smith, Bruce. 1988. Effects of Rope Aging. NSS News 46:4, April 1988.

Stibranyi, Gustav. 1986. Tests and Practical Experiments with Czechoslovak Climbing Ropes, Used in Speleology. Proceedings of the 9th International Congress of Spe1eology. Barcelona. Spain. pp. 324-328.

Storage, W. and Ganter, J. Physics for Cavers: Ropes, Loads, and Energy. NSS News.

Storage, William. 1994. Aging Carabiners. NSS News, Sept 1994.

Storrick, Dr. Gary D. 1995. Prusik Rappel "Safety". Nylon Highway #42

Sulowski, A.C., Brinkley, J.W. 1990. Measurement of Maximum Arrest Force in Performance Tests of Fall Protection Equipment. Journal of Testing and Evaluation, American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM),, Philadelphia, PA. Vol. 18, No.2, March.

Taupin, Daniel, et al. 1992. Techniques of Protection Anchorages. Federation Francaise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade

Vines, Tom , 1983. The New York Incident. Response magazine, Summer

Vogel, Todd J. 1994. Bolts: bomber or time bombs? Rock and Ice, July/August, 1994.

Wang, Eric L. (date unknown) Force Measurement in Rock Climbing Ropes. white paper, Department of Mechanical Engineering, University of Nevada, Reno.

Warild, Alan, 1994. Vertical. Sydney, Australia: The Speleological Research Council Ltd. pp. 64-66.

Wylie, John (date unknown). Friction, Fear, Friends and Falling

Nylon Highway - index to past issues

 

Text Books, Rope and Rescue Methods

Brown, M., 2000. Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems,. Delmar.

Fasulo, David - Self-Rescue - 1997 Chockstone Press

Frank, J. et al., 1987 Rope Rescue Manual, California Mountain Company.

Long, John - Climbing Anchors - 1993 Chockstone Press

Long, John - More Climbing Anchors - 1998 Chockstone Press

May,W. G. 1973 Mountain Search and Rescue Techniques, Rocky Mountain Rescue Group Inc., Boulder, CO.

McInnes, Hamish, 1998. International Mountain Rescue Handbook, 3rd. ed. Constable & Co., London.

Peters, E. editor, 1982. Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills, The Mountaineers, Seattle, WA.

Padgett, A. et al., 1989. On Rope, National Speleological Society, Huntsville, AL.

Setnicka,Tim J. 1980. Wilderness Search and Rescue, Appalachian Mountain Club: Boston, MA.

Shepard, Nigel, 1990. A Manual of Modern Rope Technniques. Reprinted 1999, Constable & Co., London.

Vines, T. et al., 1989 High Angle Rescue Techniques, National Association for Search and Rescue.

 

Texts, Engineering, Physics, Analysis

Cutnel, J.D., Johnson, K.W. 1989. Physics. Wiley and Sons, NY NY.

Den Hartog, J.P. 1961 Mechanics, Dover Publishing, NY NY.

Mandel, John. 1964 The Statistical Analysis of Experimental Data. Dover Publishing, NY NY.

Shames, I.H. 1967. Engineering Mechanics, Statics and Dynamics, 2nd ed. Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, NJ.

 

Testing Standards

ASTM C1028-96 Standard test method for determining the static coefficient of friction of ceramic tile and other like surfaces by the horizontal dynamometer pull-meter method. ASTM, West Conshohoken, PA

ASTM D1776-98e1 Standard Practice for Conditioning Testing Textiles

ASTM D4268-93 Standard Test Methods for Testing Fiber Ropes

ASTM D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles

ASTM F1956-99 Standard Specification for Rescue Carabiners

ASTM F1768-97 Standard Guide for Using Whistle Signals During Rope Rescue Operations

ASTM F1740-96 Standard Guide for Inspection of Nylon, Polyester, or Nylon/Polyester Blend, or Both Kernmantle Rope

ASTM F1772-99 Standard Specification for Climbing Harnesses

ASTM F1773-97 Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment and Practices

ASTM F1774-99 Standard Specification for Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners

ASTM F1775-97 Standard Specification for Labeling of Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment

CEN rope and mountaineering standards:

EN 892: Mountaineering Equipment - Dynamic Mountaineering Ropes - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 12275:  Mountaineering Equipment - Connectors - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 12277: Mountaineering Equipment - Ice-Tools - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 12492: Mountaineering Equipment - Harnesses - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 12492: Mountaineering Equipment - Safety Helmets - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 564: Mountaineering Equipment - Accessory Cord - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 565: Mountaineering Equipment - Tape - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 566: Mountaineering Equipment - Slings - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 12276: Mountaineering Equipment - Frictional Anchors - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 12270: Mountaineering Equipment - Chocks - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 567: Mountaineering Equipment - Rope Clamps - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 958: Mountaineering Equipment - Energy Absorbing Systems for Use in Klettersteig (Via Ferrata) Climbing - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 959: Mountaineering Equipment - Rock Anchors - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 568: Mountaineering Equipment - Ice Anchors- Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 569: Mountaineering Equipment - Pitons - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 893: Mountaineering Equipment - Crampons - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 12278: Mountaineering Equipment - Pulleys - Safety Requirements and Test Methods

EN 20139: Textiles - Standard Atmospheres for Conditioning and Testing (ISO 139:1973)

EN 919: Fibre Ropes for General Service - Determination of Certain Physical and Mechanical Properties

Cordage Institue Rope standards and testing methods

CI-1201: Fiber Ropes, General Standard

CI-1403 Terminology for Fiber Rope

CI-1500 Standard Test Methods for Fiber Ropes

CI-1801 Low Stretch/Static Kernmantle Safety Rope

CIB-1.4 Technical Information Manual - General Rope Usage, Operational Guidelines, Rope Fibers, Rope Engineering, Application Engineering

OSHA 29 CFR General Testing Conditions and Additional Guidelines for Personal Fall Protection Systems (Non-mandatory) - 1915 Subpart I App B

NFPA 1983-2000.

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